Check your ego at the door and prepare to be humbled. That's the approach that works best. If you send - woohoo. If you fail - good training! :)
Highlights of my two week trip are as follows (I've gone with the euro grades as, after all, this is sport climbing):
Spray-A-Thon 8a+ - 5th shot (super steep with one tough crux. My first grade 30 on foreign soil.)
The Anti-Phil 8a - 4th shot (gently overhanging with brutal campus-snatching around a low roof)
The Beast 7c+ - 4th shot (slipperiest rock on the planet?)
Pump-O-Rama 7c+ - 2nd shot (just like Mt Coolum in Australia. Technical kneebars not an issue :)
Beer Run 7c+ - 3rd shot (my fave in Rifle, varied and amazing)
The Blocky Horror Show 7c - 3rd shot (stepped roofs, then hugging headwall)
Hang Em High 7b+ - onsight ("proud onsight dude!" pumped off my dial)
Pretty Hate Machine 7b+ - 2nd shot (slippery steep route)
Easy Skankin 7b - onsight (best sport 12b in USA they reckon!)
And here's some pics of me doing Spray-A-Thon on my final day. Big pressure!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI53xqzjoOuB5f22H8IMe_uYWT1okPGJ1X1fxkKneGA65g4LQ__Lj6ODrzugclNrfLmyh9fPgXQzCsk3xGfHQ41Stx5dKfSxvnW9FcLYR_yta5MocYZiiWG7Tv_J-rtCZQNf3GVKfi/s640/IMG_5758.jpg)
Getting set up for the dyno. Off the right hand undercling, you jump for that hole. Very cool move.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6LV2Z9qR6uTLID00E9wen92St6rSF1_oZ6y7Zp53VgO8vEUi3I4Jn1X_I4pgpM7QFfG9USC39YSHb2QYihUvbLVP14SF3WZmAF601bH4ypfa0ij2zj17xV8sZbP_X9LPSqGqUC7dx/s640/IMG_5762.jpg)
Clipping in the crack section.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKMHS0PfVzXFsnmS8ttTrEUBPm2h0WiScYRa-6fRubSFErpeFDCZN-Mai_ors_32o8PdDSzUwn3zkcSiiGOm00ei57wiTWQumD5oZ9tcHI47pzfg1silgw0seOr4CJh9uXd9_Kgfyi/s400/IMG_5767.jpg)
Double kneebars (sort-of) before the first bulge. I figured out some great beta for this bulge that even the locals now use. Energy conservation is all about using momentum!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXx9pauvyjM3pq6LMGsFhotmATUjNxyp7xO8CIG1cmw4vZ6RltU95D78KxiTl1doUyRkUDQ7QvEAUIsPZk5h3ijEMFyI6cQWY0TwsZCDYa7IqKJpsLM4qX8O4Gv7Yw6HXkVSaxbz3/s400/IMG_5775.jpg)
The crux move! Might not look much, but you're reaching left hand for a hold known as the "pencil". But I reckon a pencil would be a better edge.
So thanks Rifle, you were great. I love you.
All pics © Jason Huston 2010
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